Climate Change Crisis

Climate Change Crisis Forum - Episcopal Church of Los Angeles

A link to a forum held by the Episcopal Church of Los Angeles in March of 2015 about climate change crisis. The forum was created to help fulfill the 5th Mark of Mission of the Episcopal Church:

"To strive to safeguard the integrity of creation and sustain and renew the life of the earth."

The web site includes a webcast and links to related content and additional resources.

Definitely worth exploring if you are interested in learning more about climate change and how our Episcopal faith can inform our response to this signal event occurring right now on "earth, our island home."

Plant This, Not That: Shade Plants for Suburban/Urban Woodland Buffers By Ellen Sousa

From http://nativeplantwildlifegarden.com/plant-this-not-that-shade-plants-for-suburbanurban-woodland-buffers/?utm_content=buffer230fe&utm_medium=social&utm_source=facebook.com&utm_campaign=buffer

The exotic (non-native) Japanese Pachysandra (Pachysandra terminalis), periwinkle (Vinca minor), English ivy (Hedera helix) and Wintercreeper (Euonymus fortunei) have long been staples of New England gardens for their shade tolerance and ground covering habit. Go to any garden club sale or plant swap in the spring and you’ll find these plants available by the bucketload — but if you live in the northeast US and have a bit of woods separating your property from your neighbors, think twice before bringing any of these plants home.

Vinca minor forms mats under trees, but can spread into nearby woods if not contained or blocked with edging or walkways. This small wooded buffer in Boston’s suburbs is completely covered with vinca which has crowded out the lady’s slippers, lowbush blueberries and solomon’s seal which once grew here.

Because these plants spread aggressively by their roots or stems, when they are planted adjacent to moist woods in New England, they can quickly spread into the woodlands, choking out anything else that happens to be growing there and threatening unique and fragile woodland plant communities. English ivy and Wintercreeper also climb trees and can eventually kill them (not to mention the damage the  ivy can do to your house if you allow it to climb walls).

And once these plants are established in an area to their liking, good luck getting rid of them if you ever decide you’d like to plant anything else! Pictured below is a small woodland buffer in Sudbury, MA, highly valued by the homeowner for its summertime privacy screening from neighbors. The vinca, pachysandra and English ivy planted decades ago near the house have escaped into the woods and the homeowner is frustrated that the young trees are dying, and that she cannot get seem to get any other plants established here:

This client opted for professional removal of the invasive plants using a mixture of low-impact (non-herbicidal) removal methods and looks forward to establishing a woodland garden with plants such as trilliums, bugbane, wild phlox, baneberry, wild ginger and ferns.

If you drive around the leafy outskirts of Boston MA, you might be impressed at the established trees, especially in older neighborhoods (more than 50 years old).  Many of the spaces between houses are heavily wooded — in New England, trees don’t need much encouragement to grow. But take a closer look at what else is growing under those trees. You’ll quickly notice those same few species of plants in just about every neighborhood!
You won’t see these plants on New England state invasive plants prohibition lists, simply because they don’t reseed themselves the way invasives such as Asiatic bittersweet do — by birds eating and dispersing their berries far and wide. They spread mostly from being planted in favorable conditions near moist woodlands. As so much of our region is now gobbled up by roads and development, those wooded buffers between homes are often the only wildlife habitat that remains in metropolitan areas of the northeast. Although birds might utilize the trees for their nesting opportunities and insect forage, a buffer taken over by invasives will lack most of the ecological benefits provided by a diverse understory of native woodland plants. For homeowners that understand that their yard plantings have an impact on the wider environment, a little effort to search out appropriate native plants will go a long way towards increasing the biodiversity and wildlife value of suburban yards. Not to mention, the results are much more interesting!

Woodland garden at New England Wild Flower Society’s Garden in the Woods in Framingham, MA.

So, if you do border on moist woodlands, what are some “safe” alternative groundcover native plants to look for? Try the beautiful running foamflower (Tiarella cordifolia), which is (mostly) evergreen and forms a thick weed-suppressing mat under trees:

There is also a native pachysandra called Allegheny Spurge (Pachysandra procumbens) that hails from the southeast US, but grows happily in my zone 5 central Massachusetts garden. It looks a lot like Japanese pachysandra but its leaves are less glossy:

Early season foliage of allegheny spurge is bright and green, and later in the season turns to a mottled pattern. It is not evergreen in my Zone 5 Massachusetts garden.

Canada Yew (Taxus canadensis) is a native yew that loves the cool, damp shade of New England forests. Unlike its popular Eurasian cousins that are standard as sheared foundation shrubs in the US (T.cuspidata, T. baccata, T. x media), this yew stays low (2-3′) and spreads up to 10′ from its base:

Canada yew growing along a stream at Turkey Hill Brook Farm in Spencer, MA. It loves the cool damp microclimate of this forested north-facing valley slope.

Because it’s a deer favorite, wild populations of Canada yew are becoming rarer in Massachusetts, as suburbia pushes outwards and deer populations soar out of control. Unlike other conifers, however, Canada yew will resprout after being pruned (by deer or hedge-clipper), so if you live where deer populations are somewhat under control (or you are willing to put up deer fencing), the evergreen Canada yew is worth growing to help preserve local populations and genotypes.
Wild ginger (Asarum canadense) is another native that will quickly cover an area in moist shade. It’s growing here at Garden in the Woods along with several types of fern and Allegheny Skullcap (Scutellaria serrata).

More native eastern ground covers suitable for moist shade include bunchberry and mayapple:

I don’t believe Japanese pachysandra or Vinca will disappear from our home landscapes any time soon, and admittedly, as long as they are contained, they should not cause much harm. A patch CAN be useful if you have dogs. Our border collie Speck hates the heat of summer and loves to cool off in pachysandra, which appears to bring him much relief. I have left one well-contained patch as his personal dog bed…

Maryland's Wild Acres

http://dnr2.maryland.gov/wildlife/Pages/habitat/wildacres.aspx

 

Today, more than ever, wild animals and plants are facing many pressures from humans. Many natural areas have been affected by people in some way, and the quality of wildlife habitat has been steadily decreasing. As a result, habitat loss is the number one threat to wildlife and plants throughout the world.

Proper habitat for wildlife includes an area which supplies food, water, shelter and a place to raise their young. Because wild animals need areas of suitable habitat, your backyard, schoolyard or development can be designed to be a part of an important network of "Wild Acres" used by Maryland's wildlife.
Maryland’s Wild Acres is a voluntary program which encourages Maryland citizens to create backyard wildlife habitat. Backyard wildlife habitat can increase food and shelter for wildlife, control soil erosion, reduce sediment in waterways, conserve water, improve water quality, inspire stewardship and beautify the landscape. The goal of the Wild Acres program is to create backyard habitats across the State that maximize wildlife benefits and highlight conservation stewardship. Backyard wildlife habitat can include decks, yards, large lots and everything in between. The Wild Acres program offers fact sheets on how landowners can enhance their habitat for wildlife by creating food, water and shelter resources. In addition to providing fact sheets, a quarterly publication, Habi-Chat, is produced which highlights native plants, animals and habitat-enhancing activities. While the Wild Acres certification program does not exist anymore, homeowners can still use Wild Acres information to enhance their habitats. You can certify wildlife habitat through the National Wildlife Federation and/or the Maryland BayWise program.
So, if you feed wild birds, place nest boxes around your house and/or planted flowers and shrubs to attract wildlife, then you are already part of Maryland’s Wild Acres! Check out the fact sheets below as well as previous Habi-Chat publications for useful tips and tricks to attract wildlife. If you want to learn more about wildlife found in Maryland, then check out the Maryland Wildlife List page. Keep in mind, Wild Acres does not provide license to ignore local or county laws, homeowners' agreements or other covenants. Please respect local guidelines.

Invite Wildlife to Your Backyard!

Wildlife Fact Sheets & Nest Box Plans (see original article for active links)

• What’s the Buzz: All About Pollinators
• American Kestrel
• American Robin
• Barn Owls
• Bees
• Butterflies of Maryland
• Common Dragonflies and Damselflies
• Common Spiders of Maryland
• Discover Maryland's Bats
• Eastern Bluebirds
• Eastern Gray Squirrel
• Feeding Wild Birds
• Hummingbirds, Butterflies & Bees
• Living with Wildlife
• Northern Cardinal
• Mourning Dove
• Owls in Maryland
• Purple Martins
• Squirrels in Maryland
• Turtles in Maryland
• Wood Ducks
• Wrens

Landscaping for Wildlife

Habitat Suggestions

• Groundcovers
• Planting Shrubs for Wildlife
• Native Maryland Trees
• Shrub and Tree Pruning
• Water Drips for Wild Places
• WildScape; 1-Acre or More
• WildScape: Porches & Decks
• WildScape: Townhouses & Condominiums
• Backyard Ponds
• Bad Plants Planted by Good People
• Brush Piles
• Crops for Wildlife
• Feeding Wild Birds
• Hedgerows
• Mowing Cycles
• Predator Guards
• Snags and Logs
• Warm Season Grasses
• Wildflower Meadows

Greening Your Landscape

• Beneficial Bugs
• Composting
• Rain Barrels

Wildlife Identification Guides

• Common Backyard Herps
• Common Bees
• Common Butterflies and Skippers
• Common Feeder Birds
• Common Mammals

Backyard Wildlife Habitat Resources

Check Out Habichat! DNR's Online Quarterly Newsletter for Stewards of Maryland's Backyard Wildlife

Five Plants You Think Are Native But Aren’t by Vince Vizachero

http://www.bluewaterbaltimore.org/blog/five-plants-you-think-are-native-but-arent/

October 4, 2015 · by Vincent Vizachero

Because native plants have a long co-evolutionary history with the native wildlife of a location, they are uniquely well-suited choices for the modern garden. In this age of climate-change and habitat destruction, our gardens should do more than just look good: they must do good as well.
Whether that means providing food and shelter for wildlife or reducing stormwater pollution, native plants are great plants.
But human memory is short, and people sometimes equate prevalence with history. Yet many plants that Americans think of as native here are actually introduced from Europe, Asia, or Africa.

Here are five plants that people often think are native that aren’t.

We’ve also included a few suggestions of native plants you can use in their stead.
1. Crepe myrtle (Lagerstroemia) is a group of plants introduced to America from China and Korea in the 1790s by a French botanist. These colorful small trees are so common in southern states that they are often assumed to be native. While crepe myrtle offers colorful summer blooms, the plant produces no nectar and is a host plant for only three kinds of caterpillars. A good native alternative? Try smooth sumac (Rhus glabra), a native shrub with red berry clusters on female plants.  
2. Despite the cunning name, American boxwood (Buxus sempervirens) is decidedly un-American: the native range includes Europe, Africa, and Asia. Commonly used as a highly pruned hedge plant, we generally encourage gardeners to take a lower-maintenance (and more wildlife-friendly) hands-off approach. Herring Run Nursery offers several varieties of the native inkberry (Ilex glabra) that can make a fine substitute for boxwood. The ‘Densa’ and ‘Gem Box’ varieties are especially dense and compact.

3. Another non-native with good marketing is Kentucky bluegrass (Poa pratensis). This turf grass has no direct native equivalent, but for places where an old-fashioned lawns is simply not needed a meadow that includes shorter native grasses might be just the ticket. One of our favorite native grasses is little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium), which is both a stunningly gorgeous plant in fall and also a host to several native butterflies and moths.

4. Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota) is so common along roadsides and in old fields that it seems totally at home here, but it doesn’t belong. Instead of planting this in your garden, we suggest a white-flowered boneset or thoroughwort instead. These are better choices for pollinators, and supports dozens of species of lepidoptera.  
5. Daylillies, especially the orange Asian species Hemerocallis fulva, are so popular that it is hard be believe that they don’t belong here. But they don’t. In fact they aren’t even true lilies. Worse, these are listed by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service as one of the “Plant Invaders of Mid-Atlantic Natural Areas”. Remove these if you have them and replace with Rudbeckia triloba or Heliopsis helianthoides.
Don’t be fooled by a plant just because it is common. It is easy to look up any species of plant in the USDA Plants database to see if it is native or introduced.

Can Native Plants Be Invasive? By Kim Eierman

Can Native Plants Be Invasive?

By Kim Eierman

I hear people talking about common milkweed as invasive. Can native plants be invasive?
Answer:
No matter where I travel throughout the U.S., I often hear people talk about certain native plants as “invasive” perhaps mentioning plants like Canada Goldenrod (Solidago canadensis) or Common Milkweed (Asclepias syriaca) – two plants that can spread extensively by rhizomes and create large stands.
Hmmmm, aren’t those great ecological plants?  They certainly are! An extraordinarily large number and variety of pollinators visit these plants and many species of birds eat their seeds. Canada Goldenrod blooms in the fall, a time of year when resources are slim for pollinators. Common Milkweed is the preferred species of milkweed used by Monarch butterflies as a host plant for their caterpillars. So, are they invasive?  Not at all.

Canada Goldenrod (Solidago canadensis)
photo by Peter O’Connor_Flickr

Some indigenous (aka native) plants are certainly more aggressive than others, but that does not make them invasive. Sometimes aggressive native plants are exactly what you need to replace and outcompete truly invasive plants that have been introduced from other ecosystems. Japanese Knotweed, Black Swallowwort, Autumn Olive, to name a few – are some of the bad boy invasives that terrorize landscapes in the Northeast.   If you were to remove a patch of Japanese Knotweed, replacing it with native plants, then you’d better bring out the big guns that have a prayer of standing up to that Godzilla of invasive plants.
Would you ever use aggressive native plants in an average garden setting? You certainly might, siting these “friskier” natives appropriately, where they have ample space and/or ample competition. Or, you might select similar species that are more subdued – perhaps Asclepias purpurascens (Purple Milkweed) in lieu of Asclepias syriaca (Common Milkweed). “Put the right plant in right place” still rings true.
So what are invasive plants anyway? Ask 10 people, get 10 different answers. In 2006, the National Invasive Species Council and the Invasive Species Advisory Committee adopted the following definition:  “a species that is non-native to the ecosystem under consideration and whose introduction causes or is likely to cause economic or environmental harm or harm to human health.”

Silphium perfoliatum
Photo by Rockerboo_Flickr

To make things even more confusing, some states are including indigenous plants on their “noxious weed” and prohibited plant lists. It is confusing. New York State, includes Silphium perfoliatum (Cup Plant) on its list of “Prohibited and Regulated Invasive Plants.” Yes, it’s frisky, but it is native to New York, and has great ecological value. Not only is Cup Plant highly attractive to pollinators, its leaves are attached to the stem in such a way that a small “cup” is formed, capturing rainwater, and attracting thirsty birds and insects. Noxious weed or valuable native plant? Like, I said, it’s confusing.

Cup Plant Holding Water for Birds
(photo by Benet 2006_Flickr)

Let’s flip the initial question and ponder – “can invasive non-natives be ecologically beneficial?”
This question is even trickier. I have heard from more than one beekeeper that Japanese Knotweed is a great nectar plant. Honey bees (non-native, albeit valuable to man for the surplus honey they produce) flock to Japanese Knotweed. As noted above, Japanese Knotweed (Polygonatum cuspidatum) is a beast, swallowing any plant within its grasp, and not stopping there, but continuing its mighty reach until a massive monoculture results. Surely, we can make the argument that in spite of its nectar, this is a plant that should be removed, as it presents environmental harm.
The takeaway here – use regionally appropriate, site appropriate native plants, understanding that some a bit more boisterous than others – and that can sometimes be exactly what you need.
Thanks for your question!
From Kim Eierman at EcoBeneficial!
Photo: Cup Plant (Silphium perfoliatum) with a happy native bee.

The Many Benefits of Hugelkultur from http://www.permaculture.co.uk

( Saw this on FB (thanks to Les Squires, Transition in Action), thought of Jack. Not just for vegetables, good for shaping rain gardens.  And the steep ones would be great for arthritic gardeners.)

 

Hugelkultur are no-dig raised beds with a difference. They hold moisture, build fertility, maximise surface volume and are great spaces for growing fruit, vegetables and herbs.

Hugelkultur, pronounced Hoo-gul-culture, means hill culture or hill mound.
Instead of putting branches, leaves and grass clippings in bags by the curbside for the bin men... build a hugel bed. Simply mound logs, branches, leaves, grass clippings, straw, cardboard, petroleum-free newspaper, manure, compost or whatever other biomass you have available, top with soil and plant your veggies.
The advantages of a hugel bed are many, including:
The gradual decay of wood is a consistent source of long-term nutrients for the plants. A large bed might give out a constant supply of nutrients for 20 years (or even longer if you use only hardwoods). The composting wood also generates heat which should extend the growing season.
Soil aeration increases as those branches and logs break down... meaning the bed will be no till, long term.
The logs and branches act like a sponge. Rainwater is stored and then released during drier times. Actually you may never need to water your hugel bed again after the first year (except during long term droughts).
Sequester carbon into the soil.
On a sod lawn Sepp Holzer (hugelkultur expert) recommends cutting out the sod, digging a one foot deep trench and filling the trench with logs and branches. Then cover the logs with the upside down turf. On top of the turf add grass clippings, seaweed, compost, aged manure, straw, green leaves, mulch, etc... 
Hugel bed in Ontario, Canada (By Travis Philip)
Hugelkulter from permies.com: Pallets used around periphery
Steeped raised beds: From 'Sepp Holzer's Permaculture'
Sepp Holzer recommends steep hugel beds to avoid compaction from increased pressure over time. Steep beds mean more surface area in your garden for plants and the height makes easy harvesting. The greater the mass, the greater the water-retention benefits.
Vertical logs
Hugel bed dug in clay with logs put in vertically, next branches and lots of wood chips. Top 6" will be wood chips and dirt. This bed will store water and give nutrients for many years to come.

Straw bale gardens require less soil, less water and hold heat. As the straw breaks down nutrients feed the plants. Combining a straw surround with a hugel interior, topped by lasagne layering is an excellent idea for an area with poor quality soil.

Hugel bed in Ontario, Canada (June 28) by Tim Burrows. Tim surrounded his very tall hugel bed in pallets!

Sheet mulching (lasagne gardening) is like composting in place. Above: just a suggestion as to sheet mulching layers. Nitrogen-rich material such as fresh grass clippings or green leaves put right on the hugelkultur wood would help jump start the composting process. Could also include seaweed, straw, dead leaves, leaf mould, etc...

The first year of break down means the wood (and fungi) steal a lot of the nitrogen out of the surrounding environment, so adding nitrogen during the first year or planting crops that add nitrogen to the soil (like legumes) or planting species with minimal nitrogen requirements is necessary, unless there is plenty of organic material on top of the wood. After the wood absorbs nitrogen to its fill, the wood will start to break down and start to give nitrogen back in the process. In the end you will be left with a beautiful bed of nutrient rich soil.
Tree types that work well in hugelkultur:

Hardwoods break down slowly and therefore your hugel bed will last longer, hold water for more years and add nutrients for more years. But softwoods are acceptable as well, a softwood bed will just disintegrate quicker. Mixing woods with softwoods and branches on top, to give off nutrients first, and hardwoods on bottom, sounds like a plan if you have access to multiple types of wood. Yet the newly decomposing softwoods at top will eat up a lot of nitrogen at first, so compensate for that.

Woods that work best:
Alders, apple, aspen, birch, cottonwood, maple, oak, poplar, willow (make sure it is dead or it will sprout).

Trees types that work okay:
Black cherry (use only rotted), camphor wood (well aged), cedar/juniper/yew (anti-microbial/anti-fungal, so use only at very bottom or unless already well aged. Cedar should be broken down before new plant roots reach it), eucalyptus (slightly anti-microbial), osage orange (exceptionally resistant to decay), Pacific yew (exceptionally resistant to decay), pine/fir/spruce (tannins and sap), red mulberry (exceptionally resistant to decay).

Tree types to avoid:
Black locust (will not decompose), black walnut (juglone toxin), old growth redwood (heartwood will not decompose and redwood compost can prevent seed germination).
This article was cross-posted from www.inspirationgreen.com/hugelkultur.html

Further resources

Want to learn more about huglekultur beds? We highly recommend Sepp Holzer's Permaculture, a ground breaking book that will teach you all you need to know! (Also available as an eBook) (For US readers, you can buy from Chelsea Green HERE)
Desert or Paradise by Sepp Holzer 

Looking Good All Year by Benjamin Vogt

People often have the illusion that gardens are static places, manicured and perfect, stable and constant. Some botanical and public gardens contribute to this idea, but they are highly stylized examples, with legions of workers and volunteers — which most of us don’t have access to. What can we do to maintain an aesthetically pleasing landscape year-round that’s also sustainable and a wildlife haven?

Ellen Sousa/Turkey Hill Brook Farm

1. Begin with design planning. You know how asters tend to get leggy? That’s the chrysanthemum lace bug at work, and there’s not much you can do about it. What you don’t want to do is put those asters in the front of a border or near a path where everyone can see their bare, brown decaying bottoms. Underplanting with sedges (Carex spp.), grasses or other low-growing perennials is what you’ve got to do.

There’s black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta), a biennial and sometimes a triennial. But in late summer, if it’s near the end of its life, it’ll just go brown and die. It needs to be surrounded by other plants, especially plants that come online in late summer — say, sideoats grama (Bouteloua curtipendula), little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) or aromatic aster (Symphyotrichum oblongifolium).

Some taller plants flop in a lush garden setting, so buttress them with other medium-high to tall plants. Think about and design for the issues that will come up down the road, and when you design your garden, those issues won’t make the garden appear worn, spent or generally unattractive.

Adam Woodruff + Associates, Garden Artisans

2. Redefine attractive. There’s growing awareness in landscape design of the value and beauty of seed heads, sedges, dried grasses and woody stems. For a long time, gardeners have been cutting down plants in autumn to maintain a neat or tidy look, but then you have to look at a moonscape for several months — not to mention the wildlife habitat you’ve eradicated for overwintering insects and birds seeking shelter.

Designing not just with winter in mind but intentionally for the winter garden season creates a landscape that’s full of intention and resonates with power for anyone experiencing it. Those rudbeckias that die back? Boy, do they have stunning jet-black seed heads. Indian grass is an upright stunner that maintains its flamboyant tops into spring. A “dead” garden can be as beautiful as one flush with Crayola color just months before.

See more reasons not to cut back your fall garden

Donald Pell - Gardens

3. Use self-seeding as a jackpot and a scourge. I don’t know about you, but I find it helpful to let the plants tell me where they like to grow. Sometimes I’ll place something in a spot my research suggests is ideal, but then I find that it struggles or slowly moves — by roots or seeding — to a better spot where it thrives. This is not a defeat for a gardener wishing to maintain a cohesive and presentable, aesthetically pleasing landscape; it is a wonderful opportunity to engage with plants on their level.

Let some of your less architectural or anchor plants find their way around your garden. If seedlings pop up where you can’t stand them, toss them, move them or give them to your friends.

Minglewood Designs

4. Let shrubs take up the perennial slack in spring. The spring cut-down exposes soil to light, which is necessary for new seedlings and awakens the dormant ones. It also exposes a naked design. I find spring the ugliest time in many of my landscaped areas, even if it doesn’t last but a month. There are two strategies to fix this: Go crazy with spring ephemerals and other early-blooming perennials, or think about adding flowering shrubs and small trees.

When my perennials are a foot tall at best, and the grasses are another month away from rocketing into the air, serviceberries, plums, chokeberries, ninebark, spicebush and viburnum carry the midspring weight — and not just because of their blooms. These shrubs add architectural structure and a vertical stretch of green that gives the garden the appearance of being further along than it is. A bonus is that they help the winter garden look good, too.

See how to grow more shrubs for your home garden

L. A. Peluso Designs

5. Celebrate the hard realities of life. Plants are a lot like us: They get sick, they get stressed and tired, they get lonely or overcrowded, and sometimes they just give up. I want to see us celebrate the realities of plants and gardens — the occasional broken stem, the monarda covered in mildew and the plants gone dormant too early in an unusually dry summer. When we embrace the realities of the natural world and stop fighting them with added watering or chemical inputs, we might find the garden an intrinsically more beautiful and inspiring place.

These are just a few ideas for how to maintain a healthy and vibrant-looking native plant garden over the seasons. What binds all of these strategies together is the principle of planting thickly and in communities of plants that are also found together in the wild. The benefits they give one another — often intangible and unseen to us — help them thrive and also provide an aesthetic that never falters or calls into question the skill or vision of the gardener.